Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Its beginning to feel a lot like Christmas.....

Well, not really, if you count the endless summer of death that I am currently living in. Who ever would have thought it true, but I do miss freezing my butt off walking to class/making Chris drive me in any temperature below 50. More than anything, I miss Christmas in the city. Don’t get me wrong, I did pretend like I was window shopping outside Marshall Fields while shopping in the Kaolack market. But, the endless hissing and shouting “hey toubab” or for those who pretend to speak English “hey sister” (or brother when they really cant speak English), tended to annoy me more than make me smile. And especially following Tabaski, the streets were covered with trash rather than snow and Christmas cheer. Ok so that doesn’t reeeeaaaallllyyyy happen, but since I’m here, I like to pretend like it does.

I came to Kaolack, once again, for a number of reasons. I am certainly spending my time in the village and trying to learn pulaar (tons of fun let me tell you), but the dramatic drop in number of fruit trees in my backyard and the random disappearances of personal items let me know that it was time to leave for a night. That, and I wanted to decorate Chrismas cookies. So here I am, spoonless, toothbrushless and alarm clockless (all taken by the fam…random) but I’ve got cookies. Not that I can eat them. However, I will eat them all in front of my family out of spite. Hey, maybe I’ll even eat them with the new spoon I bought, fully equipped with my initials via permanent marker.























However, it is questionable if I will go back to the village today. Yesterday on my way into Kaolack, I found myself stuck in Nioro because the Alhum driver decided he wanted a nap. WHAT?!?! Oh Africa! Being without my nalgene and dying of thirst, I had no other option but to buy water from a street vender. In some circumstances this is okay because the water is in “sterile” water bags. Meaning, purified water bags instead of the one I drank: Pretty much a plastic bag that tasted like someone’s hand and was filled with puddle water. Greeeaaaattt….. Needless to say, my tummy hasn’t felt so good since last night and I’m afraid Galaas is rearing his ugly head again….NOOOOOO!!!!

On a brighter note though, the Alhum I rode in today was extra classy. When I stepped on, I wasn’t sure if a Mexican birthday party had thrown up all over the inside of it or if Snoop Dog was throwing a party. First, the festive blue with white ruffled fabric hanging down every row and down the windows was perfect length to just touch the top of my head. I wonder how many other people’s heads it has touched? Ew. The gauwdy gold pictures of Muslim Cheiks hung down like Pinatas all around the car constantly bumping people as they walked by. But with the windows obviously lacking a tint, the sun reflected of the disco ball hanging from the center of the car. Right from the stomach of a life size cut out of Snoop Dog. Again, WHAT?!?! The entire ride I had the pleasure of listening to “gin and juice” dubbed into French, while being blinded by Snoops disco ball bellybutton. It was great. Not to mention the chickens that were under the seat in front of me pecking my toes for the entire 3 hours. I swear it was an accident that I dropped my bag on them. 6 times. Whoops!

I’ll keep everyone posted on my whereabouts. Keep stalking me on google earth Chris haha! Maybe you’ll see my hut sans banana and papaya trees. I’ll probably be back in Kaolack on the 22nd or 23rd before I head to Dakar for Christmas. Yay Beach!

Oh also, if anyone can find some information on NGO’s who deal with building wells or info about grants and that kind of stuff let me know!!! I think I’m going to start working with that. When I went to the gardens, the people digging the wells made sure to stop for about 2 hours to tell me how tiring it is to build a well. Think they were trying to drop a hint? Well, I caught on so I’m going to see what I can do with it.

Enjoy the snow and downtown Chicago for me!!! Steal a present off the big tree since I’m not there to do it dad!


Also, there is a new critter in my hut....Look closely and see if you can find him. He needs a name. Unfortunately, Tyler, has already be taken by Rachel's roommate.

Friday, December 12, 2008

Tell me Sira Ba, have the lambs stopped screaming?

Actually Dr. Lecter, no they have not!!!!

Tabaski-- the Muslim equivalent of Christmas sans presents. I think the best way to describe any type of Senegalese holiday is anti-climactic. There was so much build up from my family about it for days before, a countdown even. Waking up that morning, i expected a breakfast of something other than well, my best friend millet. I was sadly disappointed. Thank god for my scrambled eggs and starbucks espresso that I made for myself instead. Sorry millet and fish heads, there are much better things in life than you.

Looking sadly at the sheep who is going to bite the big one, I waited uneasily as it frolicked around the yard completely unaware of his fate. As he was tied to the tree I fought back tears and ran into my room and grabbed my IPOD. Theres nothing like a little Barry White while you're forced to watch a sheep get slaughtered. Utterly horrified and unable to hide it on my face, my families laughter was less than appreciated. Especially when they tried to hand me the rusty machete. Yea laugh it up guys, ever seen a creepy mutant sheep movie called black sheep? Well I have. Jerks.

An afternoon snack of "Teew," meat, was a pretty broad description of what I ate/might have ate. A spoon full of sheep testicles accidentally fell out of my hand and on to the ground. Accidentally. Im pretty sure I don't need testosterone, especially from a sheep. Egads! And the bowl filled more with bones than actual meat was attacked by hands and mouth noises more than I could handle. Oh wow, mi haari! I'm full. Time to break out the food stash in my room. Damn it, those starbursts are a poor substitute sheep balls. Yea right :)

I didnt even have to wear my senegalese clothes because only the younger girls changed into their nice clothes and dolled themselves up "libby lou" style. Glitter galore. This turned into me as a personal photographer, I was not impressed. My camera just happened to die and I have to buy the batteries in Dakar. I don't but it gets me out of picture taking until after new years I suppose. Oh well, another lie whatever. But as I sat, cameraless, on the rugs outside, the sun began to set and the other sheep were returning from the fields. I swear to god they new what had taken place earlier that morning. Well, it could have been the blood soaked sand everywhere. But as they walked past my hut and into the compound, they all stopped, dead in their tracks if you will, and looked at me. Then at the blood, back at me, blood, me. I think I have it coming when I go back to the village. Those sheep are plotting against me. I swear I didn't do it!!!! I didn't even eat it!!!! Those sheep are creepers and they definitely knew.

Coming out of the village this time was a much needed break. A few nights ending in tears and the never ending battle with the termites has finally started to get to me. Although I am growing rather attached to the bat. His name is Felix. But, having things "borrowed" from my hut only to be returned broken was fun. Even though they are only scissors, they were golden. What the hell. Oh and my wonderful bananas are no more. My family came in and chopped them down. I asked for some, but the response was that "well sira ba, you didn't plant them so why should you get them?" Newsflash genius, neither did you. I cried alot and didn't talk to them for a day and a half. I'm still bitter, a little.

I will be coming back to Kaolack again after a short 2 day stint with the termites and banana thieves to decorate christmas cookies. Then its off to Goree Island for Christmas. Sad that I wont be spending time with my family and friends, but I think the egg nog and wine might help with that. Haha just kidding mom!

I love you guys, Merry Christmas! Call me anytime!